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Watch Chains

Developed initially for functionality, the watch chain grew into a statement piece itself. From the elaborate chatelaines to the dapper fob decoration, watch chains evolved in parallel to the pocket watch to become an essential component of refined dress.

As early pocket watches became more refined, many wearers sought solutions to maneuvering their timepieces without worry of damage or loss. To be sure, these watches were designed to fit snugly into pockets, but the hurried wearer ran the constant risk of dropping or losing ones watch if not adequately attentive when slipping it back into its spot. The solution that emerged for this conundrum was the watch chain, which gave the wearer the freedom to attach his or her watch to a button lapel or belt loop.

Soon after, this utilitarian chain became elaborated, with its links conjured in precious metals like silver and gold and its terminal accented with elegant fobs featuring semi-precious stones and enamel inlays. Thus, antique and vintage watch chains serve as a reminder of both the past popularity of the pocket watch and the sophistication of its wearer.


Quick Facts

  • Watch chains did not emerge until the early years of the 17th century. Before that era, watch chains referred to necklace-like chains on which a portable watch pendant would be suspended
  • Prince Albert, ill-fated spouse of Queen Victoria, is rumored to have popularized the use of the watch chain in 19th-century England
  • To accommodate the day-to-day variety of women’s dress, some women’s watch chains featured an adjustable length

Recommended Items at Auction

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16K Yellow Gold Man's Pocket Watch Chain, late 19th c., App. Total Wt.- 1.35 Troy oz., L.- 14 3/4 in.
May 27, 3:30 PM PDT
16K Yellow Gold Man's Pocket Watch Chain, late 19th c., App. Total Wt.- 1.35 Troy oz., L.- 14 3/4 in.
by Asté Maison de ventes
Est: $1,500- $2,500
$1,2000 Bids
18K Yellow Gold Dolphin and Dog Watch Chain, 19th c., App. Total Wt.- 0.78 Troy oz., L.- 11 3/4 in.
May 27, 3:30 PM PDT
18K Yellow Gold Dolphin and Dog Watch Chain, 19th c., App. Total Wt.- 0.78 Troy oz., L.- 11 3/4 in.
by Asté Maison de ventes
Est: $2,000- $3,000
$1,8000 Bids

Sellers Who Sell Watch Chains


Asté Maison de ventes

Asté Maison de ventes