Lot 330: Deborah Turbeville (American, b.1938)

Deborah Turbeville (American, b.1938)
Prints and working copies, 1970s
A large collection of gelatin silver prints, including image from Black Dress shoot inscribed "Dear Xavier, Remembering Wednesday 23rd of August, 1978 - and Fellini's Casanova - Deborah", 73 further prints, 10 contact sheets and 272 enlarged contact prints from same shoot, some with printing notes and roll and frame reference on verso, 6 earlier assorted prints, 9 identical prints on card from Salon Girls shoot, approximately 63 photostats from same shoot (quantity)
35 x 28cm (13 3/4 x 11in) and smaller

A substantial archive charting the Black Dress photoshoot which took place on location at Xavier Coiffeures on West 57th Street. Another image by Turbeville taken in the salon was illustrated by Diana Vreeland in her book Allure (1980; p.207), a copy of which is included in this lot. She commented, "now this is new - doesn't this picture look exactly like a brothel? What fascinates me is that this is an advertisement. If you take a picture of four girls sitting around in a washroom... and then use it to sell hair - you've got to say that's funny or you'd go out of your mind." In 1976 Xavier also invited Helmut Newton into his salon (see lot 329).