Lot 55: Baudouin Mouanda (Congolese, born 1981) Sapeurs de Bacongo, 2008

Baudouin Mouanda (Congolese, born 1981)
Sapeurs de Bacongo, 2008
edition 8 of 10
C-print, mounted on aluminium
60 x 90cm (23 5/8 x 35 7/16in).
Footnotes

Provenance
Private collection, Paris.


Mouanda's love affair with photography began in 1993, when his father gave him his first camera. He went on to study photography at the Fine Art School of Kinshasa, where he was awarded Best Photographer.

The present lot is part of SAPE, his best-known series. The photographs portray members of the S.A.P.E. (Societé des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Elégantes) in Brazzaville, the capital of the Republic of Congo. Predominantly young men, these sapeurs are united by their common love of sartorial excess and flamboyance. The style is characterised by bright colour, impeccable tailoring and attention to detail: dapper suits, jaunty bowler hats, bow-ties and polished brogues. The men take their inspiration from the fashion templates of 1920's Paris.

The Congo was first exposed to Parisian dress in the early 20th century, after the area was colonised by the French. However, far from being slavish imitators, the modern-day sapeurs bring their own interpretations and flair to the jazz age styles. Their sartorial statements are not about conspicuous consumption or frivolity. They represent an attitude, a 'model of gentlemanly behaviour' and decorous conduct. It is also a way for young Congolese men to confront their nation's colonial history, focusing on the positives of European-African exchange.

Mouanda described the sense of empowerment he felt seeing these sapeurs on the streets of Brazzaville:

"In front of me, one of the greatest fashion battles was being played out, with the local sapeur community confronting a number of Parisians straight out of France. It was a moment to thrill to memories of France and history, but the only thing that mattered was the colours, that driving force with all sapeurs: blue, white and red. Here they were only fighting a style war."


Please note: this lot will be sold with a certificate of authenticity signed by the artist.